Georgia is a country in Caucasus, former Soviet Union state, bordering the Black Sea, Russia, Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan. The culture is Georgian, but has traces of a mix of Asian, Eastern European, and Middle Eastern cultures, that can not be described in a single word. Please see this article for details.

Air pollution is a serious problem in Tbilisi, which is the capital of Georgia. During the visits I made to the city, I used to wear masks in areas with heavy traffic in the centre, as the air gave me allergic reactions. The main sources of harmful substances are transportation, energy, industry, agriculture, and waste. As you can see in statistics, a majority of people are riding diesel and technically defective cars. Those cars are cheap used vehicle commonly bought from foreign markets, sent to Georgia. It’s a common sight to see a broke down car and stopped in the middle of the street, left untouched and abandoned.

The people living in the city centre of Tbilisi who long for clean air usually go to the outskirts of the city to breathe. Lake Lisi and Turtle Lake is about 15 minutes by car from the city. About two and a half hour from Tbilisi, the town Borjomi is located in the green mountainous areas of central Georgia. Borjomi is famous for its water, which is a little salty, slightly sparkling, and sold in bottles at supermarkets and convenience stores all around Georgia.

The bad air is at its worst in the centre of the city, and along the main avenues. But the clear air in the hills surrounding Tbilisi is not far away. When I walked up to the sculpture that rises above the hill in the South-West, Kartlis Deda (Mother of Georgia), I arrived on top of the hill in about 20 minutes from starting by the foot in the old town.

The city of Tbilisi spreads in front of you, and on the other side you can overlook the botanical garden on the huge site of about 41 hectares which corresponds to the size of about 34 times the Tokyo Dome.

From there, we head east and head to the fortress, Narikala. On the left side is a city full of houses, on the right the nature spreads under the rocky hillsides and looks like an complete other city.

Walk for about 20 minutes and you will reach Narikala Fortress and St. Nicholas Church. There are many churches in Georgia, and they are in a different architectural style from those in Europe and the Middle Eastern mosques. It is worth while to stop by as small a church and experience the atmosphere.

The Narikala Fortress was built in the 4th century, and although only a part of it remained due to an explosion of gunpowder in the 19th century. The city can be overlooked from here, and the night view of the fortress seen from the city is also excellent. You can also go there from the old town by ropeway, which also is open in the nighttime.

In a small town called Mtskheta, which is about 20-30 minutes drive from the center of the town, there are three churches recognized as World Heritage Sites. The smallest one, the Giwali Monastery, built in the 6th century, lies on a hill overlooking the other two churches Samtavro Church and the Monastery Sveti Skoveli Cathedral. Ziwali Monastery is also registered as a heritage at risk level because it does have a plan of restoration.

From the hill you can see the surrounding city. Overlapping mountains, rivers and city lights further enhance the light of the sunset time.

A three-hour drive from Tbilisi is a rural town called Kazbegi surrounded by the Northern Caucasus Mountain Range. There is a hip hotel, which is a sister hotel of Rooms Hotel, which opened several years ago in Tbilisi. Rooms Hotel Kazbegi offers magnificent views of Mount Kazbegi from the restaurant, the lobby, the indoor pool and its some of its rooms.

From the room called Forest View you can’t see Mount Kazbegi, but there are rooms with views there as well, and you can still enjoy the views in the common spaces.

From the room called Mount View, you can see the details of the vast mountains.

It is also popular as a place to ski in winter. The price is about 15,000 yen to 25,000 yen per night, which is a fairly cheap considering the quality and views. Of course you enjoy traditional Georgian food with a modern twist and wine at the restaurant. It may be better to stay for a few days and soak in the wonderful nature instead of saying just one night.

The current Georgian prime minister, Mamuka Bakhtadze, aged 36, advocated a “green economy” policy when he took office. Within the next 10 years, 90% of currently used cars will be replaced with electric cars, and over 2,000 electric cars will be implemented in a car sharing system by next year. The replacement of public buses and the construction of a new subway will also begin. Furthermore, it prohibits the production, import and sale of polyethylene bags from April 2019, and it will be possible to only manufacture, import and sell biodegradable and compostable bags conforming to the country’s technical standards. Georgia cities that promoting youth cultures which are raising awareness for pollution while continuing to preserve their own culture and language is important. This may turn Georgia into a role model country in a few years, if it accelerates its efforts to combat pollution.The contrast between the chaotic streets of Tbilisi, and the calm scnerey of nature.

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All photo by Natsuko Natsuyama
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Markus Oxelman & Natsuko Natsuyama

Met in 2017 in Copenhagen while they were both staying in the same shared apartment. They bonded quickly over both enjoying the travelling lifestyle, food, wine, art and music among other things. Both are based between Copenhagen and Tokyo but also spends occasional time in Georgia. Started writing about Copenhagen and Georgia in 2018.
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Georgia