Uncovering the hidden delights of Kochi Prefecture

Arguably one of the most diverse and naturally stunning prefectures in Japan, Kochi is criminally overlooked. Perhaps the reason is the area’s slightly isolated position at the southern pocket of Shikoku, or maybe, the rugged mountains effectively hide the area from prying eyes.

An even better guess though is that the untouched beauty of southern Kochi is so great that those in the know want to keep the place a secret in an effort to maintain its pristine atmosphere.

For those looking to uncover a side of Japan, one where rugged mountain ranges pour down into crystal clear water and where sandstone sculptures tell the tales that go back over 15 million years, you need to add The Shimanto River, the Tatsukushi coast and wider southwestern Kochi Prefecture to your must-visit list.

The Shimanto River, the lifeblood of southwestern Kochi

Known to be the “last remaining limpid stream in Japan,” the clear water Shimanto River runs like an aqua-blue ring running around the southern pocket of Kochi.

At 196-kilometers in length, the river is the longest in Japan’s Shikoku region, but it is far more than just an impressive body of water. For those locals that live here, it’s a way of life. Fishermen work tirelessly collecting long-armed river shrimp and delicious local freshwater nori, two local dishes ubiquitous in the area’s impressive restaurants and izakayas.

For lovers of the outdoors, the Shimanto River is a natural wonderland, a playground offering endless hiking adventures along the landscape’s many untouched mountain terrains. For those who like to immerse themselves in the stunning nature of the area fully there are also many watersports; canoeing, cruising, paddleboarding and swimming opportunities aplenty in the crystal clear waters that flow through the peaks and valleys of the rugged surrounds.

Those on a spiritual quest, the area is a breathtaking backdrop to the famous Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage trail, a trail which runs the entire circumference of Shikoku with multiple highlights near the river area. Some of the temples neighboring the Shimanto River include Iwamotoji, Enkoji, and Kongofukuji a little further down south.

How to travel around

Although the length of the Shimanto River clocks in at a little under 200 kilometers, exploring the area by more analog methods of transport is a very doable and popular way to see the Shimanto River.

Bicycle routes weave their way along the riverbeds and up the lush green hilly mountainsides, and they’re a great way to take your time and appreciate the beauty of this corner of Kochi. To cover the entire river, it’s worth putting aside about three days.

One of the easiest, most accessible ways to pick up a pair of wheels is by visiting the Shimantogawa Bicycle Rental Centre which is located right by the Shimanto Tourist Information Center in town, just by Nakamura Station. When you do pick up a mountain bike, which costs ¥1,500 per 24 hours take some time to chat with the friendly local staff about some local tips on the best ways to tackle the Shimanto River circuit.

If you want to see the area from a different angle, canoe rental is another excellent way to explore. Visit the Shimanto Canoe and Camp Village Kawarakko to sign up for a canoe tour along the Shimanto River, and master the art of solo canoeing. Canoe rental costs ¥5,200 to ¥9,200 depending on the package. If the weather is right, and you want to hang around a little longer, the campsite here is a great place to set up a temporary home base.

To kick back and let someone else take charge of the navigation, head on the northwest of Nakamura train station to find Semba Roman Matsuhiroya, a small river cruise company run by husband and wife pair Mr. and Mrs. Matsuhiroya. The boat you’ll find here are called senba and are a roofless style vessel which in the 1930s was used to transport goods. A cruise on one of these historic boats costs ¥2,500 per person.

Cafe culture

Kochi is a prefecture not short on impressive cafes, which is fair given the landscape. If your backyard looked as stunning as southern Kochi, you’d want to spend your days sipping coffee and admiring the views too!

The Road Station Shimanto Towa is typically the first port of call for those traveling to the area, and for a road stop it’s got to have one of the best locations in Japan. Situated atop a cliff looking out over the river, the Towa canteen offers hearty classic Japanese cuisine made with fresh local produce, an insider’s tip: try the unagi (eel), it may be a little more expensive, but tender, sweet and juicy, you’ll see just why it’s one of Kochi’s most famous dishes.

A little more rustic, and one of the most endearing culinary destinations is the Farmhouse Restaurant Shaenziri, a community-centric restaurant located in Nishi Tosa, Shimanto City. Run by local ladies from the area, this countryside buffet-style restaurant offers an incredible spread of local fresh vegetables, fruits and select meats prepared in a classic homestyle fashion, infused with love and love and care.

Precariously perched over the Shimanto River, Shade Tree Coffee is one of the most stunning cafes in Kochi, thanks to its careful architectural design and love of almost gravity-defying angles. Predominantly consisting of glass and clear perspex, no matter where you sit, you’re always afforded incredible views of the area. Beyond that, the menu is a coffee and mouthwatering cake and style affair, with options rotating regularly.

Artisans of the area

As well as producing incredible food and providing fertile ground for outdoor adventures, it seems that this side of Kochi is also home to some very fascinating artisans.

Located between the riverbanks of the Shimanto River, and the neighboring mountains, Workshop Kurogane, is a Tatara ironmaking workshop run by local blacksmith Nobuya Hayashi. Here guests can sign up for a personalized one on one class and craft their very own piece of authentic Japanese Tatara knives and other blacksmith wares.

For local produce of a different kind, head to the rugged, rocky coastline of Kuroshio, north of Shimanto where you’ll find Soltyve, a salt-making workshop run by Takumaru Yoshida and his family. The company produces what they call Tosa no Shiomaru a pure, sea salt naturally derived directly from the neighboring sea. Harvested using sunlight, patience, and hard work, the salt is some of the most pure and delicious you’ll find in Japan. You can sign up for a class to make your own salt for ¥1,500 per person which includes your own jar of Tosa no Shiomaru to take home.

Embrace the sea

It’s easy to assume that Kochi is a prefecture covered in mountains, however, visit the nearby Tatsukushi, and you’ll find a completely different side of this diverse landscape. Positioned on most southern coast of Kochi, Tosashimizu, Tatsukushi is a coastal region home to vibrant aqua water, fascinating geological rock formations, and marine life.

This location was awarded Japan’s first nationally-designated oceanic national park, thanks to its unique landscape and rich natural history. It’s a history which can practically be read on the layers of potholed rocks scattered around the area. These sandstone formations which run along the cost were formed around 20-15 million years ago by a series of tremors and earthquakes and were naturally sculpted over time by the Kuroshio Current.

Above the water the landscape is stunning but that’s just the tip of the iceberg, below sea level is an entirely new world of mystical aquatic beauty, bulbous coral formations, and colorful fish. There are two excellent ways to get up close and admire this side of Kochi, the Tatsukushi glass-bottom-boat and Ashizuri-Kaiteikan Under Sea Aquarium.

Traveling between the central area of Tatsukushi and the coast of Minokoshi, the boat journey takes about 20 minutes each way and costs ¥1,560 for adults and ¥780 for children. Located seven meters beneath the ocean surface, the Ashizuri-Kaiteikan Under Sea Aquarium is like an underwater observation tower featuring large portholes for viewing the local marine life in its natural habitat, access the aquarium costs ¥900 yen for adults and ¥450 yen for children.
Web: Tatsukushi Tourist Organization

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All photos by Lucy Dayman
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Lucy Dayman

Originally from Australia, in 2016 Lucy left her job as an editor of a culture and music magazine in Melbourne to live, work and travel in Japan. Between freelance writing and traveling, she’s been dabbling in film some very amateur film photography, which you can check out on her Instagram: @lucy.dayman. Check out her other writing work and photos at lucydayman.com