Neoprene is a rubber based material typically reserved for rugged outdoor use – think wetsuits, orthopaedic braces, and car fan belts. Thick, cushiony, and robust, it’s one of the last materials you’d typically consider would make the ideal foundation on which to build an accessories brand, but Australian label Witu did just that.
Based in Melbourne, the Witu name has built a cult following thanks to their innovative neo-futuristic, yet timelessly minimalistic adoption of neoprene. Challenging the ideas of what makes accessories beautiful while simultaneously creating objects able to withstand the wear and tear of rough and tumble urban life, it’s no surprise Witu’s bags quickly gained traction as an everyday staple both locally and internationally.
After launching a handful of years ago, the brand has gone through a number of evolutionary stages. Since building on the already established fan base, they’ve taken a little more of a backseat of late. The decision to slow down a little is a considered move given the meteoritic rise to popularity in its early days.
In 2016 the label created a capsule collection of bags for Melbourne’s NGV (Nation Gallery of Victoria) collection as a part of the Ai Weiwei x Andy Warhol exhibit. Ai Weiwei was such a fan of the bags he took one for his girlfriend.
To learn more about what the label has been up to lately, we spoke with Natalie Turnbull who is not only the Witu co-founder but also a talented set-designer. We talked about the birth of the label, her love of Japan and what’s on the cards for 2019 and beyond.
Can you tell us a little about yourself?
I’m from Melbourne originally. I’ve travelled a fair bit but always love coming home to Melbourne. I studied Sculpture and Spatial Practice at the Victorian College of Art.
I love art, design, film, food, anything done with intention and purpose. I love going to Japan, for this reason, it seems like everything there is so well considered. I now work as a creative director and set designer as well as running Witu. I think I’m lucky to do what I enjoy as my job.
How would you describe the Witu ethos to someone who doesn’t know about the brand?
Witu is about creating pieces for the everyday. Simple, refined, minimal.
Can you run us through the origins of Witu?
Myself and Elise Wilken founded Witu. She has since left the business, but a lot of the founding of the brand was done together. At first, I think we just wanted to make things together, so we tried a few things but it was after a trip to NYC together that Witu was born. We had seen the material neoprene over there being beyond the more conventional uses at the time (i.e. wetsuits) and saw the possibility of using this material to create other shapes.
We both loved clean streetwear but felt this was lacking for womenswear, especially when it came to accessories. We wanted a bag that would go with the clothing we liked to wear, and there wasn’t much around.
The company started as a way to create pieces we wanted to wear, and our friends would want to wear. The network of who liked it grew quickly, and after getting into a few stores around Australia, it was reaching more and more people. It’s still a really small brand, but I like to think it’s still something we created for ourselves and our friends. It’s that simple everyday tote bag that you’ll feel a little lost without.
Why did you decide to focus predominantly on creating accessories?
We felt there was a gap in the market for an everyday bag that was sturdy, functional but also beautiful. Somewhere in between a gym bag and a designer handbag. I guess we decided to focus on getting a few things right before expanding to other things, which I haven’t taken off the cards, just haven’t got there yet.
You make your items from neoprene which is a very specific material, why did you choose it? What do you think is so beautiful about neoprene?
Neoprene is a fantastic material. In terms of design, it has so many possibilities, and as a material, it’s so sturdy easy to care for. All of our bags are entirely machine washable. While it’s a harder material to work within a manufacturing sense, we love the outcome, so it makes it worth it.
You started the label when you were quite young! Do you think your age hindered or benefitted your break into the fashion/ retail/ accessories scene?
I think if I was starting now, I would be a lot wiser. We had a lot of interest from overseas stores at the start, ones I wish I had known how to deal with better. Experience comes with age, but also when you are younger, you are so much freer to jump into something without hindrance or restrictions around commitments in life. So it’s good and not bad, but a learning curve.
Over the past few years, how has Witu changed?
It’s been a significant change doing it all myself, I still think I am getting used to that and just keeping it afloat with my other work going well is a challenge. It’s been a long time in the making, but I am definitely due to release a new collection sooner rather than later. I have grown a lot in the last say, five years, so also what I want in a bag has changed. I actually love designer bags like Celine, and so it makes me question where Witu fits in and again go back to the origins of creating bags that we want to wear. It’s changing now in that way, finding that space for the brand to exist.
You’re based in Melbourne, how would you explain Melbourne as a city to someone who has never been?
Melbourne is what the big cities like New York used to be, I think. Just so far away from the rest of the world. But it’s a cultural and creative hub with a lot of support and a great creative network. The people are great; the food is excellent, the art is unique. It’s a nice place to live, but also a place I think you need to leave every so often to appreciate it.
You’ve visited Japan a few times in the past, what is it that you love about the country so much?
As I mentioned above, Japan as a culture do design and creativity unlike any other country in the world. The country’s understanding of design is so inspiring, and their attention to every detail is something I love. I’ve been a few times now and hope to go again soon. If I could pack up and move anywhere in the world just for fun, it would be there. I do wonder if living there would ruin the romance of the place, but I have a feeling it wouldn’t. Maybe one day…
In terms of the Tokyo creative scene and Melbourne creative scene do you see any connections?
In some ways, definitely. I think things that appeal to people in the creative world exist in both cities. Good food, design, art, food.
Are there any other designers/ labels from Australia you think people should keep an eye on?
There are so many really. I think Arnsdorf is such a beautiful label, the tailoring and designs are classic and timeless. My favourite clothing brand is Kloke.
Do you have a favourite Witu item/ collection? Why?
I use my habitat tote in black every day, I’m a simple gal and can’t go past it.
What are your plans for the rest of 2018 and beyond?
The year is almost over, but what’s essential for me at the moment is solidifying where I want to take the brand and what the next steps are. I’m hoping to have that sorted so next year can be a good one.
Originally from Australia, in 2016 Lucy left her job as an editor of a culture and music magazine in Melbourne to live, work and travel in Japan. Between freelance writing and traveling, she’s been dabbling in film some very amateur film photography, which you can check out on her Instagram: @lucy.dayman. Check out her other writing work and photos at lucydayman.com
